Onions are among the most potent flavor powerhouses in the kitchen – lending dimension and depth to many a dish, cooked or raw. It’s difficult for me to imagine a culinary world without these essential raw materials, part of any well-stocked larder. One memorable Christmas day, many years ago, my family ran out of onions. We talk about it as the “Christmas cooking disaster”. In complete and utter panic, my sister and I sent our good-natured father on a lengthy quest all over town looking for an onion, any onion. We’d have been satisfied with a fistful of scallions, the strongest tear-producing Spanish onion or even one meager shallot. Luckily my parent’s house is surrounded on both sides by friendly neighbors who, at the time, also happened to have produce to spare, because 7-Eleven didn’t stock anything fresh or unpackaged (perhaps they do now) nor did any other convenience store in the Windy City.
We’re a family openly fond of onions. If you ask our daughters to name their favorite food aromas, I guarantee that onions cooking on the stovetop, with a little chopped garlic and olive oil will make the cut. I know this because our youngest once wrote a poem in which onions featured prominently. Admittedly, there would be a dead heat with the heaven-sent fragrance of freshly baked chocolate chip cookies – but that’s a topic for another day. Despite our devotion, I am aware that not everyone shares this passion. In fact I have friends who are downright onion-averse. These are folks that get one whiff of the pungent odor of a newly cut onion, become weak at the knees and need to head outside for a breath of fresh air.
Admittedly, onions are strong and full of character – they’ll swiftly destroy any unsuspecting novice’s minty fresh breath at cocktail parties and on first dates without a care, while reducing even the most stoic cook to cheek rolling tears. Really, onion haters do have legitimate reason to be cautious around these unapologetically assertive bulbs. On the other hand, there’s so much to love about the allium family, not just their dramatically beautiful flowers. Always the onion evangelist, I’m on a never-ending mission to convert skeptics, armed for battle with my secret weapon – the gentle and unassuming leek.
Leeks, like their aromatic brethren the onion, shallot and garlic, are members of the allium family. These are the vegetables that look like giant-sized scallions, but have such a mild aroma they can masquerade as something completely different. Leeks have all the flavor enhancing virtues of onions, without any of the vice – they are prized in cooking for their delicate, almost sweet flavor while nary a tear is likely to be shed in the cutting. Leeks have versatility in soups and stews, and are lovely braised and grilled. They are prized in European and Asian cuisine for their subtle onion flavor and can be substituted liberally in recipes.
These large green and white stalks are also nutritional gems. Like all alliums they’re full of beneficial antioxidant polyphenols important for cardiovascular health as well as providing potential anti-cancer benefits. Leeks are also a very good source of manganese and contain significant amounts of heart-healthy folate, Vitamins B6 and C, and iron.
Preparing and cleaning leeks is quite different from onions, shallots or garlic. Slice off the tough dark green portion of the stalk with a knife, as well as the small roots on the white bulb. Use only the remaining light green and white part of the plant. Leeks often harbor evidence of their farm field origins in the form of dirt and grit nestled between the vegetable’s layers. It’s important to clean each leek carefully to remove any residue. I like to cut the stalks completely in half lengthwise (or make a long cut lengthwise along one full side). Fan each layer out slightly to look for dirt and wash away as necessary. Cleaned leeks should be used quickly. Store unwashed, untrimmed leeks, loosely bagged to preserve hydration, in the crisper drawer for up to two weeks. So – enjoy these mild green onion cousins – this is their season, and they’ll be in short supply come summer.
Recipes for the Week:
Whenever we have leeks we always, always make a version of this spread with lots of garlic, creamy white beans and tart lemon. It’s perfect on a slice of toasted baguette.
White Beans with Lemon and Spinach
Of course, potatoes and leeks together create the classic soup combo—in this version the potatoes are roasted for added flavor.
