“What’s that bulbous vegetable that looks like pregnant celery with giant feather stalks?”
– Anonymous CSA member
Perhaps you’ve also been wondering about the funny looking bulb that came in last week’s bag. If you happened to break off a wispy leaf and take a whiff you’d have been treated to the delicate, refreshing licorice like scent of the fennel plant. Native to the Mediterranean coast, fennel figures prominently in both raw and cooked dishes of the region. The bulb, delicate leaves, celery-like stalks and seeds are widely used. Fennel popularity extends as far eastward as India, where it is appreciated primarily for its seeds – for their medicinal properties as well as in cooking. In Hindi, the seeds are called sanf and they are consumed after meals as a breath freshener and digestive aid.
This cousin of parsley, dill and carrots is full of antioxidants thought by scientists to have anti-inflammatory and anti-cancer effects. It’s also an excellent source of immune system supporting vitamin C and a good source of fiber, folate and heart healthy potassium.
Here in this country many of us recognize fennel more as an invasive roadside weed than a versatile veggie equally fabulous for sprucing up a drab salad, roasting with a bounty of root vegetables or adding sweet depth to a creamy risotto. Friends of mine, talented cooks among them, admit to finding fennel a bit off-putting. Perhaps it’s the size (how to get the thing in the fridge?). Perhaps it’s the licorice flavor (remember those black jelly beans left in the Easter basket?). Or maybe it’s just that they haven’t tried cooking with this beautifully aromatic, if kind of crazy looking bulb. I’m living proof it’s possible to evolve from fennel skepticism (perhaps even aversion) to true appreciation. Here’s the story.
For years when fennel found its way into my farm bag I would heave an audible sigh while quickly trying to pass it off to a friend. Sometimes, I’m ashamed to admit, the green stalks got added to the compost pile in the yard or chopped up for exotic guinea pig treats. Let’s just say, I wasn’t exactly open-minded when it came to fennel. This status quo persisted for longer than I like to admit until one day, in desperation, having exhausted all other options I turned to my culinary silver bullet – my technique of choice when all else fails. I decided to roast the darn thing.
First I removed the tall wispy stalks (how to fit them in the oven?) then cut the remaining bulb into large chunks. For good measure I quartered some peeled onions and minced some garlic. Next everything got tossed on a cookie sheet with extra virgin olive oil (EVOO) to coat, salt and freshly ground pepper. Barely drawing a breath, I threw the load into the smoking hot oven and slammed the door.
Here’s where I confess that I’m a hopelessly addicted roaster. I’ve roasted practically every vegetable you can imagine and then some. Why I had never tried this technique on a fennel bulb before this fateful night, I can’t say. And how I could have been surprised to find the cursed vegetable utterly transformed by the process is equally inexplicable. Roasting has been known to mellow, caramelize and concentrate flavors in many a humble fruit and vegetable, and in a way that is almost profound in its simplicity. A little olive oil, some intense heat and “voilà” – yummy!
When I look back now, it’s difficult to remember a time when I didn’t love roasted fennel – smooth, mild and delightfully toothsome with just a short half hour tour in a hot oven. I’m here to proclaim – you too can fall in love with this oft overlooked and misunderstood roadside weed, beloved by cultures throughout the world. Just try roasting the darn thing.
Here are some fast and easy fennel ideas…
Had a little too much for dinner? Try sipping some soothing fennel tea for its digestive aiding properties – simply pour hot water over fresh leaves or crushed seeds and steep for several minutes.
For simple roasted fennel, remove large stalks and reserve for another purpose. Cut bulb into 1 ½ to 2 inch chunks. Toss with olive oil to coat, salt and pepper and roast in a 400 degree oven until tender (about 30 minutes). For variety, try adding halved Roma tomatoes, chunks of bell pepper, onion or root vegetables like parsnip, potato, beets, yams and carrot (the latter three are in your bag this week). Serve roasted fennel as a side or toss with whole grains like brown rice or farro for a fabulous, quick fall salad.
Fennel is also a perfect substitute for celery in soups, stews, pasta sauces and almost any cooked dish – the heat mellows the licorice flavor and adds a lovely layer of sweetness.
Try pairing fennel and arugula (in your bag this week) with orange in a fresh tasting salad.
Other ideas for the week:
Roast those roots – like fennel, peeled, cubed carrots, yams and beets are all great candidates for roasting. Toss with some extra virgin olive oil, salt and pepper and roast at 400 degrees until tender. Beets benefit from the addition of a little water at the bottom of the pan and aluminum foil loosely covering the roots, to keep them from drying out while roasting.
Carrots and arugula/spinach – if you have any left after roasting and lunchbox packing, shred them and toss into a loose salad with plenty of torn arugula leaves and left over lettuce and roughly chopped cilantro leaves (both left from last week). Add a little red onion cut into thin rounds and a mustardy vinaigrette. If you are out of lettuce, substitute some fresh spinach.
Beets – another natural partner for arugula. Roast your beets. While they cool, prepare a salad with some arugula and any other salad green you have on hand. Toss the greens with a balsamic vinaigrette, and at the last moment add cubed beets, red onion slices, toasted nuts and crumbled goat cheese. Beets also pair well with oranges, so if you like, add orange sections to this salad (you might try adding some juice to the vinaigrette as well).
Yams (arugula and spinach) – another roasting candidate, but baking is equally wonderful. Poke a few holes in each yam with a fork and bake in a 375 degree oven until tender (test by poking again with a fork). Yams cook faster than potatoes, and be sure to put a cookie sheet underneath as they sometimes ooze a bit. Serve as is, or with a little butter or sour cream. I like to prepare yams as “twice baked” potatoes. After they are baked, remove from the oven and cut in half, lengthwise. Carefully scoop out the flesh (reserving skins) and mash in a bowl with a little butter, sour cream, chopped chives, salt and pepper (or consider adding some chopped, steamed spinach – be sure to squeeze out any water before chopping). Mix thoroughly then fill the reserved skins with mashed mixture. Return to the oven and allow the spuds to heat through, then lightly brown the tops under the broiler for a minute or so.
For something a little bit unusual, here’s a sumptuous and super simple salad you’ll love.
Recipe – Moroccan Sweet Potato Salad
Spinach and Arugula – if you missed last week’s journal, check it out for “green” ideas and recipes.
Strawberries – savor those last few berries of the season (thanks to the recent heat). Why not enjoy with your fresh spinach for a fresh, quick salad that seems fancy, but couldn’t be less complicated? Throw it together in a matter of minutes!
Recipe – Spinach and Strawberry Salad
Cauliflower – you might be sick of roasting by now, but if not, here’s another opportunity. Otherwise, you can’t go wrong with this perennial favorite from the Indian sub-continent, Aloo Gobi (Spiced potato and cauliflower). Serve with a refreshing yogurt raita and naan bread (or pita).
Recipe – Indian Spiced Potatoes and Cauliflower (Aloo Gobi)
