When it comes to super-food lists, kale is always a top contender. We’ve heard about the baked chips and green smoothies — hot trends getting plenty of buzz. Even so, it can be tough to muster enduring enthusiasm for food so uber healthy. Where’s the indulgence amidst the virtue?

There are those among us who find kale’s do-goody reputation off-putting — hightailing out the door at the mere suggestion of leafy-green dinner fare, offloading the freshly-delivered bunch to any open-handed soul in sight or pleading with a spouse to cook something else a little less, well, healthful. Whatever your personal feelings, kale deserves a second glance. Bear with me as I explain.

It’s true that kale doesn’t have to try much to get the highest marks in nutrition. There are few vegetables that boast such a stellar report card. For starters there’s a week’s worth of Vitamin K in each serving, a couple more of Vitamin A and another of Vitamin C.  If that doesn’t tempt, consider that kale can also lower cholesterol, bolster our body’s natural detoxification process and reduce risk of colon and breast cancer.  The list of health benefits goes on and on for this over-achiever — the vegetable equivalent of the perfect SAT-scoring honor student, who, by the way, is also class president, captain of the field hockey team and debate star.  Kale doesn’t take time off to relax.

Why is it we assume food so vitamin-rich can’t pack fabulous flavor? Unfair, since kale delivers in this way too. We pass it over for milder greens like spinach or chard, but there’s charm to kale’s fiber-rich substance. Over centuries cooks have learned to harness the earthy bitterness and crunch with mindful method and wise flavoring choices.  Kale benefits from slow cooking unlike the more fragile leaves.  In Italy it’s lovingly sautéed with toasted pine nuts and plump raisins. Flavored with aromatics such as garlic or onions the bitter green takes full advantage of brilliant partnership.

Kale knows when to fade into the woodwork and offer subtle support behind the scenes. Stir into minestrone or a hearty lentil stew.  Toss finely chopped leaves with nutty, whole-grain farro, seasonal apples and lemon zest for a light main dish salad loaded with robust flavor and sneaky nutrition that no one will suspect without a hint.

In season now through spring, kale is the unusual vegetable that benefits from frosty weather, gaining sweetness in winter months.  This cruciferous cousin of broccoli and brussel sprouts was an abundant crop during Roman times and fortified peasants throughout the Middle Ages.  For the backyard gardener, kale continues to be a reliable producer requiring little more than decent dirt, judicious water and a reasonably sunny spot.  If nothing else the showy leaves will offer a vibrant pop of green in the dead of winter.

I might just turn to that green smoothie today.  After a week of Diwali-oriented overeating my body craves some over-achieving, super-foodie green stuff.  I feel energized just thinking about the plentiful vitamins.  Try it — you might be surprised.

Rainbow Kale Salad